If you’re looking to experience traditional Austrian cuisine with a French touch, in New York City, Koloman is an absolute must. With that in mind, we couldn’t resist visiting this iconic restaurant for a detailed review.
Chef Markus Glocker – From Austria to New York City
Chef Markus Glocker is an Austrian native and a restaurateur with a deep passion for the culinary arts. Growing up in his family’s hotel and restaurant business in Linz (Austria), he developed an early love for both the hospitality and culinary industries.
His journey took him through prestigious kitchens, such as the Restaurant Vier Jahreszeiten in Munich (Germany), and Eckart Witzigmann’s restaurant in Berlin (Germany). In Vienna (Austria), he worked at the renowned Steirereck, before bringing his talents to the U.S. where he collaborated with culinary legends like Charlie Trotter in Chicago and Gordon Ramsay in New York. Over the years, Glocker has rightfully earned two Michelin stars.
Chef Markus Glocker is celebrated for his refined culinary craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail. His unwavering passion and commitment to excellence have earned him prestigious accolades, including a Michelin Star, 3 stars from both The New York Times and New York Magazine. In May 2015, as Executive Chef and Owner of Bâtard in New York City, Glocker achieved one of the highest honors in the culinary world, being named “Best New Restaurant in America” by the James Beard Foundation.
The Atmosphere
From the moment you step inside, you are transported to Austria, and there’s a reason for that…
The restaurant’s name pays homage to Koloman Moser, one of the leading figures of the Vienna Secession movement. Moser was a co-founder of the “Wiener Werkstätte”, which left a lasting influence on 20th-century European design and cultural life. Drawing inspiration from Moser’s bold yet elegantly simple creations, Koloman captures the essence of turn-of-the-century European cafés—vibrant meeting points for food, community, and ideas.
The restaurant features light fixtures designed by both Koloman Moser and Josef Hoffmann, handcrafted at the Woka workshops in Vienna using original tools and “Wiener Werkstätte” techniques. Moser’s distinctive motifs are subtly incorporated throughout the space, from the banquette sides to columns, adding depth and character. Fabrics adorned with Secessionist patterns, woven by the renowned Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company, further enhance the historical richness of the interior.
Designed by the acclaimed Russell Sage Studio, the space beautifully blends historical elements with contemporary flair, offering a truly unique dining experience.
It’s a wonderful feeling to be in this restaurant, surrounded by such a warm and inviting ambiance.
The Menue
Inspired by the elegant menu, we opted for a three-course meal. It began with freshly baked, warm brioche bread, made in true Austrian baking tradition. Paired with fresh butter, the bread arrived perfectly presented and tasted as delightful as it looked.
For the appetizer, I chose the fresh steak tartare with a quail egg. The fresh steak tartare at Koloman in New York was an absolute delight. The beef was finely hand-cut, boasting a delicate texture that practically melted on the palate. Its rich, savory flavor was perfectly balanced by a subtle seasoning, allowing the quality of the meat to shine. Topped with a beautifully presented quail egg, the dish took on an additional layer of luxurious creaminess. The yolk, once broken, coated the tartare with a velvety richness that elevated the entire experience. Each bite was a harmonious blend of freshness and indulgence, capturing the essence of refined dining.
The main course, a rich beef goulash paired with fresh Austrian spätzle, was pure comfort and sophistication on a plate. The goulash, simmered to perfection, featured tender chunks of beef in a deeply flavorful sauce, infused with smoky paprika and subtle spices. The sauce was thick and hearty, coating the meat in a way that made each bite intensely satisfying.
The freshly made spätzle, soft yet slightly chewy, soaked up the goulash’s sauce beautifully, creating the perfect balance between the bold, savory beef and the delicate texture of the dumplings. Together, the dish offered a comforting taste of traditional Austrian cuisine, elevated to fine dining. Each bite was a delicious reminder of home-style cooking with a refined, modern twist.
Of course, no meal is complete without dessert. And choosing one from the extensive menu was no easy task. We finally settled on the classic apple strudel.
Presented traditionally, the warm apple strudel was served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. A perfectly balanced and harmonious combination that rivaled the original Austrian version in every way. Simply delicious!
A visit to Koloman is a must for any culinary enthusiast in New York City. Not only for the outstanding food but also for the exceptionally charming hospitality—something Austrians are famous for!
